New England Clam Chowder

Ingredients

• 1/2 pound salt pork or bacon, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1 cup water or clam juice
• 2 1/2 pounds live cherrystone or littleneck clams
• 1 quart whole milk
• 1 1/2 pounds russet or yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 2 bay leaves
• kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup heavy cream
• oyster crackers, for serving